A Hybrid Owner’s winter survival guide

Yes, after almost 14 months it is complete and you may find it here:



A Hybrid Owner’s winter survival guide

My hope is that this article will help Prius and HCH-II owners overcome the fuel economy hit due to winter time driving. As with anything else in life, a bit of knowledge and upfront preparation can do wonders for your emissions and fuel economy.


Highlight: Temperature transition table for the Prius-II


Highlight: Temperature transition table for the HCH-II


You'll find a lot more detail in that article.

Enjoy :)

Finnally, hypermiling to be taught in Driver's Ed... Well not quite there yet

Well, the ball is in motion and I may have found a level of receptiveness with some at MPIC (Manitoba Public Insurance). There is a general agreement that including references to eco-driving principles in the Driver's ed handbook is a good thing. What concerns me is the level of detail (or lack of) as well as the lack of driver testing in this particular area. I sure would like to see the word "hypermiling" used in the literature but given that this is something of a first, I will understand the reluctance and the rather timid approach.

In any case, smaller steps forward are better than no steps at all... but despite this the effort forward continues.

For furhter details on hypermiling and eco-driving please visit us at WWW.CleanMPG.COM

What if I need to service my hybrid vehicle ?

It is a fact of life that nothing lasts for ever, but when it comes to manufactured goods of increasing complexity it is only a matter of time before some form of technical servicing and/or repair is required. Since today's cars are nowhere near as disposable as other less expensive technology goods, the only way to ensure a lower cost and sustainable vehicle ownership is to perform regular maintenance and hope to avoid major costly repairs.

Inevitably, this brings us back to the question about hybrid vehicle serviceability and what owners must know and do, in order to avoid complications and a higher cost of ownership. Let's face it, while maintaining a hybrid vehicle is generally affordable, repairing is entirely a different matter altogether.

Lets see what advantages hybrid vehicles have over their conventional counterparts:

• Less engine and power train wear-and-tear. Thank the "live-for-ever" electric motors along with their simpler transmissions for this.
• Less brake pad and shoe replacements/repair. Thank the "live-for-ever" regenerative braking for this.
• Most systems are electrified such as Power Steering and climate control. This renders these operations more reliable and efficient.
• For many hybrids there are longer lasting oil change intervals.
• Battery packs have long warranties and the vast majority have proven to last the useful life of the vehicle. This is something hybrid detractors do not like to hear.
  

Yes, since their entry into the market almost 10 years ago, hybrid electric vehicles have been found to be more reliable than their gas powered counterparts. In fact, hybrid vehicles have become the models of reliability across manufacturers and even across vehicle classes to such an extent that many industries have adopted HEV's in their fleets not only because of the gas savings but also because of the significantly lower wear and tear incurred.

But as we said before: nothing lasts forever. And it is on this note that we will once again delve into the intricacies of maintaining and even servicing your HEV.

Maintenace: What is it and why?

Maintenance relates directly to the preventative servicing we perform on a vehicle. The long standing wisdom is that any maintenance we perform on the basis of a recommended schedule, the greater the assurances of trouble free operation. The typical maintenance items that we can all relate to range from the usual oil and other fluid changes, tire rotations and replacement, brake checks, to tune-ups, and so on.
On this matter hybrid vehicles have proven to be very frugal and therefore very enticing and one of the reasons they have such a good TCO index in this industry. Sure, some hybrids require special fluids and even special maintenance procedures that are more expensive than that of a traditionally powered vehicles, and there not denying this helps reduce (but not eliminate) the cost benefits of hybrid vehicle ownership.

Nevertheless, you should keep the bigger picture in mind especially when picking among your options. We perform maintenance so that we can avoid the possibility of a serious failure which more often than not, will be far more expensive to repair. So, regularly scheduled maintenance is good, repairing a is preventable problem is bad. Agree?

Repairing your Toyota or Honda hybrid vehicle:

In the event that a repair is required then you must ponder carefully about your options.

1. Where to repair your hybrid vehicle. You may or may not like going to your dealer for repairs but so far they are your best option. They are the only ones who are expected to have the training and service support needed to safely and successfully perform the repairs. If you already have a good and trustworthy dealer then you have a great deal of good will at your disposal that may even pay you back in the form of lower repair bills and other warranty accommodations. If you don't have a good dealer then start looking for one if you have that option. Independent shops may want your business and even offer you a price to match but very few will actually be able to do the work with the knowledge and safety your vehicle requires. But if the statistical evidence is of any comfort, then as the owner of an HEV you are already less likely to face a repair bill than the average person. Just make sure you have your vehicle properly maintained and up to date with the latest control software.
2. How much will it cost. It depends primarily on what is broken. But as we all know, it also depends on the shop and the pricing they offer you. In any case, always seek a second opinion if you suspect the price is too high. Better yet, visit any of the online forums for your particular vehicle and ask the question. Chances are that someone will quote the nominal cost of the repair procedure and that should be all you need to move forward with a particular service department. Also, do not forget to look for the significance of this repair. If the repair bill is high but it will give you another 100K miles or more then maybe that's not too bad. It becomes another story entirely if this becomes a frequent and recurring expenditure.
3. Can I drive with a broken sub-system and postpone the repair to a later date? Only do so, if and only if, your qualified technician says it is safe and harmless. But, chances are that if a system is off-line or broken, a warning has been issued and likely to be important if not critical. Again, do not compromise your safety and that of others by delaying a critical repair.

We should always remember that while mileage varies for person to person, so does wear and tear and the need for proper maintenance for your hybrid vehicle.
In any case, if you already have a good service relationship with your service department then maintain it well. It may actually serve you well if you ever need it as leverage for warranty or even post-warranty work. This is called "good will" and it is amazing how many folks ignore it even dismiss it.
If for whatever reason you do not yet have a good dealer, then I suggest you do some research and locate one just in case you ever need it.
If you prefer to use the services of an independent shop, then I suggest you ask them for confirmation and proof that they are not only trained to service advanced hybrid platforms but they also have access to the same technical resources and parts the dealers use. If an independent service shop cannot comply with your request then look elsewhere.

You certainly would not go to a witch doctor if what you really need is a brain surgeon, now would you?

What is a bad driver ?

This issue often comes up in discussions among the ecodrving and hypermiler communities. These two groups of people are often at odds with the rest of the motorists on our roadways on a variety of controversial aspects. Let's tackle just a few in order to gain the appropriate perspective:

• Most motorists speed. They regularly exceed the posted speed limit and only come to their senses at the sight of law enforcement personnel by the road side or on a marked vehicle.
  
• Many motorists are oblivious to proper and safe driving protocol. Using anticipatory driving, using the turn signals as prescribed by most DMV's and exercising caution in the proximity of emergency or construction personnel is rare.
• Aggressive driving and occurrences of road rage are too frequent and often the cause of accidents.
• Distracted motorists are frequently noticed on our roadways performing all sorts of tasks ranging from the consumption of food, chatting on the cell phone, applying make-up and even texting.
• Quite often vehicles are found traveling at higher speeds with visibly under inflated tires. Under inflated tires are the main source of catastrophic tire failures at highway speeds (tire blow-outs) and these failures often cause serious accidents potentially involving many vehicles sharing the same road... sadly, whether traveling in the same direction or not.
• Failure to observe recreational, pedestrian and school signs. Many motorists not only speed in these zones but also perform aggressive and sudden maneuvers that exacerbate the danger factor.
• Tailgating. This is a systemic and often un-enforced violation. Tailgating (the act of following another vehicle too close for the speed) is being performed by motorists of almost every vehicle class and can last anywhere from several seconds worth, to longer time spans. Oddly enough, several automotive support groups (such as the AAA) have accused hypermilers of tailgating large trucks in what is often described as "drafting" but this is obviously false and ill informed. Hypermilers' main creed is to adhere to their DWB technique (Driving With Buffers) which effectively excludes any drafting activities. No reason to tailgate is good enough to risk anyone's safety.
  

Wow. Quite a list, is it not?

So, what defines a good driver then? For starters, consider yourself a good driver if you can honestly state you consistently do none of the above. If you can admit it to yourself that you engage in one or more of the above activities then I humbly urge you to reconsider.
Any change or improvement no matter how small, is always welcome and much needed to reduce fatalities on our roadways, reduce emissions and reduce fossil fuel use.

If you need to take it one step further then consider adopting one or more hypermiling techniques. You'll not only be an even better driver but you'll be safer, more aware of danger and the impact of your presence on the road.
You'll also be more environmentally friendly and responsible, and maybe even save a lot of money in the process. All good things for sure and the kind we can all benefit from. :)

Cheers;

Hybrid wars...

Hybrid wars ???

Yes, sad but true.

Hybrids don't even make up 5% of the market and the hybrid community is already in-fighting. In general we have people who cannot see past their choices and are unwilling and utterly unable to see merits in someone else's choices.
While this is something that has annoyed me for many years, it has become a little more annoying recently. Here are the perennial complaints I have regarding the two best selling hybrids and their fan base :
- Owners of Honda hybrids stop at nothing when calling the Prius all sorts of names including calling it ugly, "Maytag appliance like" and even weird. Geesh.
- Toyota Prius owners are so full of themselves that for them the only car worth having must be a Prius. For these sad folks, anything else is characterized as mediocre and unworthy even if the performance and underlying potential says otherwise.

As you can tell, both camps annoy me to no end. Come on folks! We need to focus our sights on the real problems and start making a difference by acting less smug and narcissistic. In addition to helping no one, such elitism on either side only helps perpetuate ignorance. We're better than this.

So, let me state a few things since by owning both cars I can probably speak with some authority and first-hand knowledge.

For the Prius bashers:
- The Prius is not ugly. If anything, it is a marvel of top tier engineering where its form and design follow the vehicle's primary goal. Still, beauty remains in the eye of the beholder but to openly dismiss the Prius on this account is hardly helpful. The Prius remains at the top of the fuel economy ladder for good reason and its shape, technology and human interface have a great deal to with it. In fact, give it a test drive before criticizing it and you'll see it is one heck of a fun car to drive.

For the HCH-II bashers:
- While the Civic hybrid is not as noticeable as the Prius at least by its shape alone, it is a fuel economy champ on its own as well. Yes, in terms of fuel economy the Prius is superior to the Civic Hybrid when in city-only operation and the combined fuel economy (the EPA ratings) bear that quite clearly. But, get the Civic Hybrid on the highway with an experienced driver and a Prius owner (regardless of experience) better think twice before challenging the HCH for the top fuel economy crown. For the typical myopic Prius owner I suggest an HCH test drive and a bit of an open mind before dismissing it since underneath that sheet metal there's some jaw-dropping FE performance to be had.

You see, both cars are unique enough and offer an alternate solution for alternate needs and tastes. In my sincere opinion, they are the absolute best cars to own and purchasing one of the two will never, ever be a bad investment. But since these two exhibit their potential in different arenas why not get the best of both worlds and own both? ;)

Think about it.


Cheers;

The AT-PZEV duo...-

Well, the wife got her new hybrid, a 2007 Honda Civic Hybrid and she loves it. To commemorate we celebrated her new car and Canada's national day with a few photos taken at the Royal Canadian Mint (where the Canadian currency is made).



Humm, two civic hybrids in our household? Why not? They still weigh less (financially, environmentally, etc) than the numerous SUV's, Vans and large sedans parked in the majority of driveways across this great country. If you believe in better examples then you might just accept being the first to provide them. In other words, "Do as I do... and not just as I say".

A cancelled hypermiling interview ...

A certain reporter from a local news broadcasting organization called me a week ago , with a request to appear in a daily show concerning hypermiling and other fuel saving techniques (I will conceal the details until such time it is appropriate to disclose them) . At the time, I agreed to honour the request provided that I got a glimpse of the interview script. It will become apparent why I added that condition ;)

Anyhow, today this reporter finally got a hold of me with the script, and after a short discussion I expressed concerns about the overall leanings of the questions and how it appeared that it was dismissive of many hypermiling and even ecodriving techniques. I explained to the reporter that much of the questions appeared designed to create a poor image of hypermilers as dangerous and selfish people concerned only about driving slowly and drafting perilously close to 18-wheelers.

I also made evident my disappointment with the lack of time allocated to me for the purpose of providing a good description and definition of the techniques involved and how they could make a difference in the amount of fuel we consume and pollution we produce all the while increasing the safety factor on our streets. That would obviously "de-fang" their show and sensationalism factor.

Anyway, given the traditionally "conservative" leanings of this bradcasting organization I was not totally surprised by their reluctance to neuter their program so that it could be more informative.

Anyway... others will certainly come who are more balanced and beneficial to a cause greater than temselves. When that happens, I may agree to an interview or two.

Cheers;

An almost depleted IMA battery...

Today while we were returning from my daughter's birthday celebration dinner, we encountered some stop and go traffic. We were riding on our 2006 Civic Hybrid and as usual we expect the fuel economy to suffer a little in a bumper-to-bumper routine.
However, it was a little warm today and we even though we had the automatic climate control ON, the battery state of charge was almost depleted in less than 20 minutes in this crawling traffic. So what happened?
Just before the traffic slowdown the battery state of charge was sitting at 6 bars. Less than 15 minutes later the state of charge indicated 3 bars. 20 minutes later the SoC was sitting at 1 bar. From that point on, no electric-only propulsion or EV assist was available and the system kicked into a 4 regen bar routine which lasted for a good 10 minutes after we left the traffic congestion.

Now, this is the second time since last summer that I've encountered this battery state of depletion. The weather was a little warm (30C) and the resulting mileage was still not too bad (5.2L/100km). Normally we get 3.8-4.2 L/100km in this type of typical city driving itinerary.

Anyhow, let the summer come - This is still better than the -40C winters we are accustomed to !!!

And another hybrid is added ...

Well, the second Honda Civic hybrid (2007) is now added to our hybrid collection.

This also means that the 2007 Prius is going out to its new role as a company vehicle. OK, OK. Many of you will say, what the heck? Why replace a Prius with an HCH? Why not keep one of each instead of going HCH all the way?

Well, the Prius never really connected with my wife and frankly despite its "current" exceptional fuel economy, it did perform worse than the 2006 HCH during the colder winter months. So even though I would really like to keep it at home, it is now to an alternate parking lot. The other bright side of this deal is that I got the same price for it that I had paid back in October 2006. On top of that, I am getting a $4,000 rebate from the government for the new one. In the end, it is an awesome deal.

Does diesel have a future in a cleaner and more eco aware future ?

Sure, why not.

The key though is for it to be as clean as possible. But can it be clean enough? This means that it must easily achieve a Tier 2 Bin 5 emissions rating or better otherwise the lower fuel consumption alone will not be much better over the exiting (and very dirty) solutions we have available. Heck, even a standard fuel efficient gasoline powered vehicle is rated as a Tier 2 Bin 5 and we all know that that is not clean enough.

Our future success in this area will depend on a viable and relatively clean set of technologies and the Diesel solution will only be part of that future if, and only if, it cleans up its act. Unfortunately, this also means that much of the touted advantages that diesels are purported to have will also be eroded by higher costs and engineering complexity needed to clean up its emissions. And given the challenges ahead of diesel platforms like cost of fuel, technical competence on the part of dealers and compliant emission control systems, the scrutiny placed on this technology is only bound to increase with time. Also complicating things a bit, is that hybrids keep getting cheaper and progressively more efficient with each new generation and that too will only help dampen the diesel acceptance.

Only time will tell, but I sure hope Diesel vehicle manufacturers invest enough and in very short order to assure Diesel tech of a good future. We desperately need a good array of viable future solutions and academically speaking, there's no reason why Diesel cannot be a part of it... if it could just clean up a fair bit.

Hybrids and poor fuel economy? The driver is key.

Why are there hybrid owners who complain about their car's poor fuel economy? Could it be that their car has a problem or could if be that the car's manufacturer lied about its fuel economy potential?

First of all, let's tackle a few misconceptions first.

The EPA and NR-CAN fuel economy numbers

The car manufacturers are only allowed to advertise a vehicle's fuel economy based on what the designated government agency determines is an achievable mileage potential. In the United States, the EPA provides the MPG numbers. In Canada, the NR-CAN performs this duty as well, and other countries have their own regulating agency that perform a similar role.

Agencies like the EPA and NR-CAN have devised a testing protocol that may reflect an interpretation of what a typical driving routine looks like. This may include test sequences that resemble city and highway driving as well as different ambient temperatures.
Furthermore, all vehicles are tested with the same protocol regardless of class and all this testing does is establish a common baseline that enables us to measure one car's fuel economy potential relative to another under the same testing scenarios. Nothing more, nothing less.

So, do car manufacturers mis-represent the fuel economy potential on the sale sticker of a vehicle?
Definitely NOT.

Now that we got this very important truth back into focus we'll move on to the other issues.

Mechanic or electronic issues with the car .
It is conceivable that the car may have developed a problem that is contributing to lower fuel economy. While this is not common, it has happened enough times to make the following areas worth investigating:

1. Wrong engine oil grade or wrong amount. Higher viscosity oil or too much oil in the crankcase will decimate your fuel economy.
   
2. Incorrect tires. If your tires are not LRR (Low Rolling Resistance) rated like the OEM tires your car came with, then you will get severely lower fuel economy.
   
3. Poor tire inflation (Always press tires up to the max sidewall pressure. The placard pressure is the MINIMUM safe pressure). Properly press tires are safer, cooler, provide better fuel economy and last longer. Blowouts and other catastrophic tire failures only occur due to lower pressures which cause higher friction, more heat due to tire hysteresis, and physical damage when hitting potholes.
   
4. Poor wheel alignment (Check regularly especially after a light accident or hitting a pot hole)
5. Failed electrical sub-system (i.e: power steering, climate control, etc) or device (relay, solenoid, etc)
6. Fuel with lower energy. Winter gas formulation and gas blended with ethanol will produce poorer fuel economy.
   

Dealer expertise.

Any dealer will easily diagnose any of the above with basic common sense and some level of expertize. If you feel your dealer is not up to the task please visit another dealer and compare the service and advice they provide. Remember, the dealer should never, ever, contradict the advice offered by the user's owner manual. If they do, then RUN away from them and report such dealers to the automaker's corporate office in your region or country.


The impact weather and ambient temperatures in fuel economy

• Wind, rain and snow will increase the drag on the vehicle while in motion. Any added drag will require more fuel in order to maintain a steady speed.
• Cold temperatures will force the gas engine to run longer and more aggressively which leads to greater consumption of fuel.
• Hot temperatures will also cause fuel economy losses. The use of air conditioning will lead to the consumption of extra energy which in the case of hybrids comes from nowhere else but the gasoline the gas engine consumes. Where do you thing the energy in the battery pack came from? ;)
  

The Driver and his/her role in the fuel economy

...Ah, the driver !!

Yes, the driver is often the single most important factor in achieving good fuel economy. Yet, many hybrid owners do not believe so! Why?
Let's look at some of the explanations many drivers have offered over the years:

Typical list of excuses

• I paid extra for this hybrid therefore I expect all this high tech to perform.
• The Automaker said I would get 50 MPG, therefore I should be able to get it.
• They say hybrids are great at saving fuel that is why I bought one.
• I needed to save time in my commute so I bought my hybrid for HOV use.
• You got to keep with the speeding traffic, if you don't then you are an obstacle and a hazard to others.
  

So, what is the key to good fuel economy in my hybrid? Here are the golden rules:

1. Slow down! The posted speed limit is the MAXIMUM speed limit you can (not should) drive at in the best conditions possible. Remember any speeds above 60 MPH (100km/h) will contribute to significantly lower fuel economy. The best speeds are 80-90 km/h (50-55 MPH) and this is true for any car.
   
2. Coast and glide as much as possible and avoid sudden stops. When you are coasting or gliding you are covering the distance without any fuel use. Sudden stops will cause the hydraulic friction brakes to be used and this is not ideal at all.
3. Accelerate slowly and keep the gas engine's RPM to a minimum. Remember, there has never been a legal requirement to accelerate as if life was a drag race.
4. Avoid driving in electric unless your state of charge allows for that. Remember, that the energy you stored in the battery pack is very expensive and should be preserved for the worse possible moments like bumper to bumper traffic or AC use.
5. Be considerate to other drivers and drive slower on the right most lane. Signal your intentions and to not engage in retaliatory/aggressive driving. This will allow you to preempt other drivers as well as anticipate events on the road ahead. For example, watch for traffic lights ahead that are turning red and glide to the stop whenever possible. If others cut in front of you then let them. Ignore the sounds and gestures of other drivers if you know they would not do that when a road examiner or police officer is driving with them.
6. Finally, combine your trips. A cold engine will typically consume more fuel and if you can do all your errands in a single drive then you will take advantage of a warmer and more efficient engine.
7. Finally, visit www. cleanmpg.com for great advice. Hypermiling will turn you into a better and safer driver. It also does not hurt if you save more money in the process, does it? ;)

Good luck

HCH-II Recalibrations (Recal). What are they ?

We often hear about recals from Honda Hybrid owners and we learn to fear them based on the reports of an impending traction battery failure. As the HCH-II ages, these chats about recals are likely to become more regular and often send other owners into a panic mode. Is this a reason to worry? Probably not.

What is a recal (recalibration) on the HCH-II ?

The HCH recalibration is an automatic process that is purely instrumented. In other words, there is a sub-system (BCM) in your HCH-II that is responsible for monitoring and managing the charge level of the hybrid battery pack and because of the errors incurred in measuring not only the pack's charge level but also how much energy enters and leaves the battery pack, in time this measurement becomes less precise.

To better explain this relationship let's depict a typical charging and discharging scenario:

1. When you depress the brake pedal your car will capture a given amount of energy which is then sent to the battery pack. The car's system measures that amount of energy and assumes that (let's say) 1600 watts-hour worth of energy was send to battery pack. But because of the energy losses due to converting electrical energy to chemical (with heat as a by-product) and the approximated method of measuring this energy, the real amount of energy ends us being a little lower than measured... perhaps just 1460 watts-hour actually made it into the battery pack. Yet the system does not necessarily see it that way. The SoC is incremented as a function of this estimate of energy that "was" added to the pack.
2. When you depress the gas pedal and you get electric assist to move forward, the system will obtain energy from the battery pack and will attempt to measure how much of this energy is flowing into the power-train. This measurement is also an approximation and the charge level of the battery pack will be adjusted to reflect the energy that was consumed.
3. Finally, the measurement of the battery pack's charge level is in itself an approximation not only because it is affected by the estimate of how much energy was stored in it but also how much energy was obtained from the pack.
   

You can see that over time, the battery charge level will be inaccurate and the car's governing system may evoke a recalibration. Basically, a recalibration simply invalidates the current charge level by "setting' it to a low enough charge level that is enough to trigger a forced regeneration process. Often we will see the charge level dipping rapidly towards an SoC reading 1 or 2 bars only which is equivalent to the lowest safe voltage permitted by the Battery Condition Monitor (BCM).
Because of this induced and fake low charge level, a forced regeneration (charging) will be triggered and will stay in effect until the car's SoC reaches 7 or 8 bars. When the highest safe voltage is detected (SoC at 7 or 8 bars) the BCM will request the cancellation of the forced regeneration.

Now, if these recals are very frequent then these events could indicate a possible condition caused by any of the following:

• If the battery pack is too cold or too hot, the system expects measurement errors to be magnified and the chance of a recal increases. Very cold weather or very hot weather with AC use are typical scenarios. This is normal.
• A problem with one or more cells in the battery pack can also cause a recal. A single faulty cell can cause precocious fluctuations in the battery pack's SoC and these fluctuations in turn, can cause the detection of either extreme of the permissible charge level which inevitably leads to a recal. This is not normal and will likely be a symptom of a fault condition. In this situation you may see an IMA warning light appear on the dash and when it does you should schedule an appointment with your dealer for a detailed assessment of the problem.

What if we are getting frequent recals, especially in moderate weather but no IMA light appears? You may try any of the following:
- Perform a power reset procedure.
- Check with your dealer for any software updates for your car.
- Maintain a detailed summary of these incidents and report them to your dealer is they persist.

In summary:

Just because we a get a recalibration it does not mean that our battery pack is going downhill. Keep an eye on it and ask online (www.CleanMPG.com) to be sure. :)

TRAC issues still?

Today, the Prius has a change of heart and it simply refused to climb the icy driveway. Yes, I had hoped that this issue had been resolved for the 2007 model years since the occurrences appeared to be far lower that what has been reported by owners of previous model years. Well, the issue is not entirely resolved at all. The car will not spin the wheels at all and just sits there with no will to move forward at all.

The car is equipped with brand new Michelin X-Ice winter rubber... which just happen to be my most preferred winter tires (got them on my 2006 HCH too). Too bad we cannot disable the TRAC via an inhibit button, but I guess protecting the MGSet is more important. I'll try explaining that to my wife. :(

But why should I not drive in electric ????

Ok, for the 1000th time: Driving in electric only is NOT desirable if your goal is to have the best fuel economy and emissions possible !

Why would this be? Isn't this the objective when buying a hybrid vehicle to begin with?
Answer: NO. The main reason why it is not a good idea is because the energy contained in the battery pack was acquired as a result of a slow down (braking) or through a forced regeneration (gas engine charging the battery pack).
The means to greater fuel economy is steady and lower speeds and a desire to conserve momentum (remember your high school physics?). Furthermore, the energy you place into the battery pack is far greater than what you'll get out. This happens because of the energy conversion losses and the more exchanges are there between the battery pack and its upstream and downstream systems the greater the losses.
For the more technical, these losses manifest themselves in the form of heat generation, internal resistances, parasitic interferences and frictional losses.

With this said, hybrids are still more efficient than regularly powered vehicles because they recover energy whereas the others would simply waste it all away in the form heat and friction.

The other point I want to touch on:
A Prius is good for 2.9-3.9L/100km in city duty. On the highway, you should be able to get at least 4.4 l/100km.
A Civic hybrid is good for 3.6-4.1 L/100km on the highway. You can also get this performance in city driving but you have to throw the entire hypermiling book at it (forget eco-driving).

Remember, speeding (traveling at or above the posted speed limit) is a sure way waste fuel and traveling at more than 100km/h (62 MPH) should be avoided.

If you own any of these cars and you are are not getting the mileage I mentioned then it is time to learn a few more tricks about your car, but the simplest you can learn is still to stay off the battery pack. I cannot stress this enough.

Winter driving In a hybrid vehicle

Temperature is the key.

The fuel economy losses due to cold weather especially sub-freezing temperatures are not just limited to conventionally powered vehicles. Hybrid vehicle's with their downsized internal combustion engines are particularly vulnerable and more susceptible to significant energy losses.

That is why many owners of fuel efficient hybrids report terrible fuel economy achievements during the cold spells. They note anything from a gas engine not stopping any longer and electric only operation being nearly impossible for weeks and even months in some places.
However, does this mean that a conventionally powered vehicle would do better in similar circumstances? Certainly not. Even with the detriment of cold temperature operation a hybrid will always be more efficient in part because its small engines running on closed loop operation (the initial stage of warm-up for modern fuel injected vehicles) will still consume far less fuel than their conventional counterparts.

OK, so is there anything hybrid owners can do to soften the cold weather blow to their fuel economy and emissions?
Fortunately there is. Lets just cover some of the most important:

1. Keep the gas engine RPMS down especially during the warm-up stages. Yes, your accelerations will be slower than usual but if you watch your instantaneous fuel economy display you'll notice that it takes little pedal pressure to hit the depressing numbers. The strategy during these warm up stages is to let the higher engine RPM power the car forward with the least amount of throttle pressure. Yes, it is a little slow but full of goodness.
   
2. Avoid setting the climate control temperature to a high value. In fact, you should set it to its smallest value possible!! This will help the car warm up even faster. When it does, tyou be warming up too in no time. This is yet another case where less is more.
   
3. Block your front intake grille. There are many ways of achieving this but whatever means you choose, make sure that it is not just effective but also safe. A popular choice is to use foam pipe insulation typically found in the plumbing section at most hardware stores.
4. If your car has a block heater installed, use it. It will do wonders for your vehicles durability and fuel economy.
   
5. Check your tire pressures. When it is cold the tire pressures are reduced and that induces unnecessary drag as the vehicle moves. Bumping the tire pressures to their maximum rated pressure will help offset the fuel economy losses of winter.

After doing all this and perhaps a bit more, how much improvement can we see in our fuel economy?
Depending on how far you go, you could see very significant improvements. For instance, if you typically get, say 8 liters/100km during the coldest days in short drive commutes, with these techniques you'll see a 1 to 3 L/100km improvement. Not too bad at all if you consider what most other conventionally powered vehicles achieve under similar circumstances. ;)